Pseudo-nuns in wellies

July 19th, 2011

Sirens and Sarah Dunant at Latitude 2011

The wondrous Celestial Sirens and Musica Secreta camped it up at Latitude 2011 in Suffolk last weekend – well, it was a tiny coterie from both ensembles, as the stage in the Literature Tent was about the size of a kitchenette in a multiple-occupancy student house, and about as clean and welcoming. The rain had left ankle-deep mud in the festival grounds and wheel-arch-deep ruts in the vehicle tracks around the site, but the sun came out on Sunday morning as we sang Agnus Dei to the brightly-coloured sheep.

We were there as the backing band (according to the compère, we were “Sarah Dunant and the Sacred Hearts”) to a semi-staged reading of Sacred Hearts by Sarah herself, Niamh Cusack, Deborah Findlay and a lovely young actress from Cork, Molly Lynch. The stress leading up to the event was, at times, unspeakable – but, rather like childbirth, although I can remember the fact of the pain, the pain itself has already mercifully been blocked out. Days of communication failure, email/text badgering and panic invested in trying to sort out the sound requirements were ultimately wasted, as the sound guy had never been given the microphone plot, had an incomplete equipment list and arrived over half an hour late. Mobile phones – or at least my wretched O2 iPhone – were useless on site; performers had to battle uncomprehending minions who had not been warned of their need for early check-in; and it is a tribute to the resilience of the singers and the ever-serene Claire Williams that the performance went on at all. There was competition from the first sunshine in 24 hours, rap, techno, township jazz and, bizarrely, another female-voice chorus (albeit one that sings U2 covers), but in the end the performance was greeted with whistles and cheers of approval from a packed-out tent.

Nano-nun yarnbombing at Latitude 2011

Our yarnbombing campaign didn’t quite go to plan, either, as the torrential rain on Saturday made it impossible to find dry places to leave our small army of nano-nuns, who were carefully tagged to bring punters to the gig, promising a free download of our trance track. Still, the little sisters must have made someone happy. And we are taking commissions now…

It’s still hard to tell whether our appearance will have rewards beyond being able to say we did it – CDs sold like a hotcake (miserable festival organization left our merchandise selling-point well hidden, while the Comedy merchandise and signings took place outside the Literature Tent… go figure). But it was a nice day out, and we made a few people smile. And it could have been the first performance of Palestrina by an all-female ensemble in jilbabs, rosaries and wellies.

Darlene

December 16th, 2010

So the Dean’s Media Network wanted me to contribute something on the X Factor. But I thought the news about Darlene Love was more important:

Last weekend over 20 million British television viewers tuned in to watch two young women and six young men compete to earn the title of X Factor Winner 2010. No matter how unpolished these performers were before they entered the competition, by the time they had reached the final, both their on-stage and off-stage personae had been well honed by publicity staff, stylists and music consultants, all under the direction of über-guru, Simon Cowell. Throughout the competition, they have sung the songs they have been given to sing, worn the clothes they have been given to wear, and generally behaved for the media in the way they have been instructed, all to fulfill a well-defined niche: Cher, the teen minx with attitude; One Direction, the modest, wholesome band of brothers; Rebecca, the wallflower single mum connecting with her inner diva; and Matt, the unpretentious and sensitive labourer determined to get his break.

Clearly, as finalists on the most widely-viewed reality show in the UK, these singers have had a huge amount of publicity. If their voices don’t make them distinct, their faces are instantly recognizable – if not from television exposure, due to their almost daily appearance in the tabloids – and their personae are well known and appealing to their target audiences. Consequently, regardless of whether or not they have won, they will enjoy (if that’s the right word) the rewards of the limelight and the chance to continue in pop music at a very high level, should their talent and their ability to navigate the business warrant it.

But was it always thus? By coincidence, today (Thursday 16 December) the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame announced its 2011 inductees, those musicians who have been deemed by the music business establishment worthy of the honor of being included in the Great and the Good of rock music. The list is uncontestably impressive: Alice Cooper, Tom Waits, Neil Diamond, Dr John, Leon Russell, and producers Jac Holman and Art Rupe. And (as usual), one woman, 72-year-old gospel singer Darlene Love.

Love’s name is not familiar to many in Britain, nor is her face – not even to the baby-boomer generation who bought records that were made million-sellers by her remarkable voice. Love – who sang for Sam Cooke, Marvin Gaye, Elvis Presley, and Tom Jones; whose group, the Blossoms, appeared weekly on Shindig! as the house back-up group; who (as part of Phil Spector’s stable of heavily exploited singers) sang an uncredited lead on The Crystals’ “He’s A Rebel,” which reached the No 1 spot on Billboard – only achieved some kind of national recognition in the 1980s, after spending years out of the limelight, taking cleaning jobs to make ends meet while her records earnt Spector millions in royalties. In 1986, David Letterman invited her to perform her signature track from Spector’s 1963 A Christmas Gift to You from Phil Spector, “Christmas (Baby Please Come Home)” live on his last TV broadcast before Christmas – a performance that has been repeated annually ever since. But even once returned to the cultural consciousness, Love has remained unacknowledged by her peers until now.

There have been strong rumours that, for many years, Spector prevented Love – and her fellow Spector artists, the Ronettes – from being nominated as Hall of Fame Inductees, wielding power as a member of the museum’s Board of Governors. Now serving a life sentence for murder, Spector has lost his influence, and the music business has regained its pop muses: the Ronettes were inducted in 2007. A girl group first topped the charts in 1961: fifty years on, rock seems to have begun to realize how important girl groups were, not just for their contribution to music itself, but as role models for working-class and non-white girls who wanted to emulate their success.

It’s hard to imagine Cowell turning down any publicity opportunity for his singers, however ephemeral their success might turn out to be. Nevertheless, the X Factor finalists should take a long, hard look at Love and what her career can teach them about the fickleness of the business, about power (when you don’t have it), about longevity and about artistic integrity. Time will tell whether the X Factor’s instant stardom really is a replacement for Love and co’s hard graft. But those that decry the X Factor as the totemic symbol of all that is bad about popular culture might also take time to consider what cultural change was wrought by Love, Ronnie Spector and all, even if at the time they were only cogs in the machine.

There and back again….

September 11th, 2010

da Danilo: restaurant of dreams

So I’m back home now, and apart from some wistful browsing of estate agents’ websites, probably not going back to Italy for a while (mm, isn’t that what I said in June?). Still, I found myself thinking, as I walked back from the Ristorante Danilo – my current Modena fave – to the train station, that I finally feel that I’m where I wanted to be, mentally and intellectually, when I set out for my first trip last October. I no longer have that nagging, sinking feeling of not having covered enough archival ground; I’m confident that I can finish a book, not just start one.

I must admit, the coming months are still a little terrifying. In fact, I had a nasty moment as the plane was taking off on my way to Bologna, when I woke from dozing in a panic because I didn’t have the chittara. Which I didn’t need until the next trip…

In five days I’ll be flying out again, this time to do a shortened version of Sacred Hearts: The Musical at the East Cork Early Music Festival. Then back to Cork at the beginning of the last week of September to perform my external examiner duties (and briefly getting to enjoy the company of not one, but two, inestimable fellow hip and groovy female musicologists, Melanie Marshall and Bonnie Gordon). Later that week I officially begin my new role as director of postgraduate studies, or head of the graduate school, or some other title, which when confirmed will certainly be capitalized.

October begins with another Sacred Hearts in Warwick, and the following fortnight in Chester. Hoping that the new Simple Wimple will make at least the dressing up a little easier. Thank goodness for DIY hijab websites.

The next week (oh, how the diary is cruel, sometimes) Musica Secreta presents their new programme, Four Weddings and a Funeral, at the Brighton Early Music Festival. Oops, just realised I need to make a page for that on the website. Oh, no, something else to do! But what a programme it will be: we’re joined by Don Grieg and Mark Dobell for lots of wedding music for multiple Gonzagas and Medicis. Highlights will be “Giunto alla tomba” sung by Don as a solo aria, and Monteverdi’s sestina. The final wedding is, of course, celestial, so a cameo role for the wimples here, too. But – and who knows how this will turn out – we plan to end the programme with the blokes singing “Si ch’io vorrei morire” and the ladies singing the latin contrafactum “Oh Jesu mia vita.” May sound like a dog’s dinner, but life and death are often like that.

The next week is half term (are you keeping up?) which is always a barrel of laughs in terms of childcare, and then I’m off to AMS at Indianapolis to give a paper. Two weeks respite, then the whole famn damily for Thanksgiving (which will be lovely, don’t know WHY I even mention it). Somewhere in there, I may have to begin my Christmas shopping.

And finish my book.

Nice to be home?

Prosecco philosopher

September 9th, 2010

Was it worth it? Almost certainly.

Another beautiful Modena morning

Two days of archival trudging; eyes that won’t focus no matter what pair of glasses I wear; a back that hurts like a bastard from perching on an ancient and weary archive chair; and a wild goose chase that currently features the goose waggling its feathery behind as it disappears behind a convent door. But I have turned over all the obvious stones, and some of the less obvious ones, and I can now say with confidence that the Este archives don’t readily have the answer to my “research question.”

Oh, I have found Francesco Viola, and I have found Suor Leonora, but not in the same place at the same time. I’ve even found Giaches de Wert clinging to a duchess’s petticoats – metaphorically speaking, and not the duchess you might think – but I didn’t find what I’d hoped to find, and that’s a pity.

The lesson here, dear reader, is that archival work is about Serendipity, aka the archive angel, but she doesn’t like to be rushed. Sometimes serendipity is about not finding things, because it may be that you’re not meant to find them yet. So I can’t get all upset about spending money on a plane ticket and a hotel because a) I don’t have to lose any more sleep over what might be in the archive, and b) just because I haven’t found what I wanted doesn’t mean that I will never find it, and doesn’t prove that it doesn’t exist.

Also, the archive angel just may be, just may be, telling me to just finish the book, already. When I consider all the leads I could be chasing, and the other archives and libraries I could be visiting, in order to get a better picture of just what was happening in Ferrarese convents in the late sixteenth century, I start thinking that I don’t just need an apartment in Modena, I need one in Ferrara, Florence, Mantua and Rome, too. When it comes down to it, I don’t need a break anymore, I need perspective.

In the course of the trip I’ve got know my girls just a little bit better, and that can’t be a bad thing, can it? For instance, I now know that the Duchess of Urbino was a vicarious benefice collector, and seems to have been only too willing to plead on behalf of her pet priests to gain another small source of income. And that the Dowager Duchess of Mantua and her daughter, the Duchess of Ferrara, plotted together to keep the family peace during an unseemly row between their respective dukes – just doing what the women of the family have done for centuries. Objectivist scholars might be horrified at the notion of “getting to know” the research object, but I’m well used to horrifying certain subsets of the academic community. And it helps me stay interested – if I didn’t think they were real women, I might not care so much.

small perspective-inducing interlude

So when I finally downed tools for the day, I went and got a nice glass of prosecco, and was unexpectedly rewarded with a very, very late lunch. Really, it’s not so bad.

And you never know what I might find tomorrow.

Le notti di Santa Caterina…

May 29th, 2010

Le notti di Santa Caterina…

…or so Sarah’s book is called in Italian. Over the last two days, every so often we’ve looked at each other and said, “I can’t believe this is happening,” or something similar. So many mind-bending instances that took both our experiences of Ferrara, as researchers/tourists/women, to a different level. The generosity of the Ferrarese is immense, and I have felt this when I’ve been there before, but this time I was an invited guest rather than a welcome outsider.

It seems everywhere we turned there was someone who had something new to show or tell us. As we stood in the lobby of the Ariostea, Elisabetta – one of the lovely women who welcomed us – gestured to a man bending over the catalogues and said, “This is the gardener at San Antonio in Polesine.” While I was talking to the librarians trying to find an elusive manuscript, I kept overhearing the most jaw-dropping nuggets of history that could only have been recounted by someone on the inside. And he complimented Sarah on getting her details almost completely right (one small quibble regarding the architecture, feh, but it was offered as an example of how well she really did). The next day we were strolling down the street, and Elisabetta called a fellow over and said, “Here’s the guy that knows most about the interior of Corpus Domini,” and he introduced himself as a graphics teacher in the school housed in a former wing of the convent. He’d made a DVD-rom on the artworks there, and promptly dashed off to get us a couple. The extraordinary Giuliana Berengan – author, playwright, literary activist, singer, personality – showed us around the shady but still airy fourteenth-century house where she was born and which has been in her family for centuries. We took pictures in the cloisters of San Antonio – something that is not normally allowed; we were fed specialties from the tradition of Jewish cooking in Ferrara by a woman who has done a great deal to record and conserve them. Elisabetta promised to look something up for me that I didn’t have time to pursue, and emailed me this morning with the references. All so generous, it’s really rather overwhelming.

At the session in the morning, in the courtyard of San Antonio, in front tof he President of the Provincia (finally, Elisabetta said, we have a woman as a President), chic in grey jeans and a bolero jacket, the Sindaco, a rather more traditional man, and Professoressa Berengan made a presentation to Sarah. Sarah prepared her speech in Italian, but then suddenly turned to me, and I spluttered along in a desperate and foolish way until I finally gave up and allowed Lucia Bevilacqua, the official interpreter, graciously to find the words for me. But I didn’t need her help to catch the Sindaco lauding Sarah as the next in an illustrious line of writers who have captured the soul of the city – Ariosto, Bassani, Dunant. It’s a measure of how much the city esteems the book already.

The view from my hotel window.

Then late yesterday afternoon there was a session at the Castello. Thrilled that Sacred Hearts, Secret Music got an airing there (yes! I mentally punched the air, Musica Secreta are finally heard within these walls!) and hugely relieved that our host for the afternoon managed to talk for most of the allotted time, so that there was no time in the end for me to say anything. More prosecco at the Brindisi – the oldest bar in Ferrara and apparently an estwhile hangout of Ariosto’s – and later we walked in the quiet streets, marvelling at the lack of tourists and the eerie beauty of the medieval buildings arching over the road.

We had time then to think about what we have achieved (I feel slightly abashed here, but Sarah is adamant that this is all a joint effort) and we came to the conclusion that as much as we have tried to get right, there seems always more to know. But on the other hand, our distance from the culture can allow us to ask questions of the narrative that might not occur to us were we native Ferrarese.

As always, I’m sorry to come home to the wet and the cold, and Network Rail hasn’t helped the situation, making me nearly two hours later home than I would be if they could be bothered to do their job properly. But I’ll get there eventually.

Aria di Fiorenza…

May 27th, 2010

The antiques market just north of Sant'Ambrogio

Florence, city of mood swings. As the train pulls out and I set off towards Ferrara (hours later than planned, thanks to the Ferrovie dello Stato) I am surprised at how ambivalent I still feel. In the past three days I have been hurled wildly between joy, deep frustration, wonder, irritation, serenity and impatience. True, it hasn’t helped that the Biblioteca Ariostea is calling me and I’m worried about getting there before the final ‘distributione’ today (not knowing what awaits me tomorrow), and that I have been suffering from a delicate stomach since Monday. But that shouldn’t cancel out the obvious beauty and meraviglie around me, the pleasure of finding some outstanding stuff in the archives and the luxury of staying in a borrowed apartment right in the centre of town, which – incidentally – was oustandingly beautiful itself.

But yesterday evening, as I was given a tour around the I Tatti villa and gardens by the superbissima, eccellentissima Kathryn Bosi – and afterwards as we sat outside a local bar, nibbling excellent antipasti and drinking chilled wine from glasses the size of Eastern Europe – I identified a possible source of my nagging, subclinical discontent.

In all the years I’ve worked and studied in Italy, the closest I’ve ever come to technology – apart from the library OPACs, which are very useful no matter where you are – is the new electronic ordering system at the Archivio di Stato in Mantova, which I encountered for the first time in October. Saying that, though, I still had to work out what to order by looking in catalogues handwritten in the eighteenth century. In Modena and Ferrara, Parma and Mantova, the libraries and archives retain an air of the past – they are housed in old palazzi, there is a sense that, when you order a book or a busta, the archivists go and find them on the same bookshelves they have been on for centuries, the armadi still stamped with the roman numerals that gave rise to the original catalogue numbers. And because of this – rightly or wrongly – it doesn’t feel difficult to connect with the documents’ histories, as the buildings and processes give you a continuity with the past.

Le Murate, modernised.

The Archivio di Stato in Florence, however, is in a large modern building with Pompidou-like external staircases, and the reading room is a masterpiece of contemporary, IKEA-like design, with little offices around the side, partitioned not by walls but by tinted glass. The catalogues aren’t falling out of decrepit bindings, the light in the separate reference room is harsh, it’s all clean, efficient, and ever so slightly soulless by comparison to the archivi emiliani. And while American money is clearly responsible for so much that is good in the preservation of priceless art and artefacts in Florence, it seemed to me that there, in the archives, the process was dragging the past into the present rather than enabling the present to reach into the past. And if you visit the convent of the Murate, there is a visible manifestation of this in the way they have converted the cells into apartments.

Although I was dismayed at the loss, when the British Library moved, of the spectacular Reading Room, and elite intimacy of the North Library (oh, the delightful frisson of unexpectedly meeting eyes – and minds – with a scholarly innamorato amongst the brass fittings, tinted lampshades and ancient wooden reading cubicles), the new rooms at Euston at least retain something of the old magic, with the open access books still there in Rare Books and Music, and the curiously antique, dimmed feel of Manuscript Room. But the Sala di Consultatione at ASF has all the charm of a corporate hot-desking office, or an unusually, preternaturally quiet call-centre. Not that I get up to flirtatious academic assignations these days, modern matron that I am, but a little air of romantic and serendipitous possibility makes the archive angel happy.

What brought this train of thought into focus was the slightly wistful look on Kathryn’s face, as she led me through the newly fitted music library at I Tatti, which although very classy, smart and undoubtedly easy to use, has the same appearance of air-conditioned efficiency, effortlessly sliding drawers of CDs and adjustable shelves instead of baroque haphazardness. And as I thought later about the buzz in the library world being all towards digital delivery here, databasing there – making her redoubtable skills as a collector, gathering materials together and putting them in one place, seem imminently imperilled – my mind skitted back to last week’s visit to the Warburg Institute Library. There it is all open access, a lovingly, generously assembled resource with obscure (but essential) essay collections cheek-by-jowl with eighteenth-century reference books. When seemingly disconnected materials are brought together, that’s when serendipity happens. The researcher’s eye can’t be caught by information stored in a database; Google only works according to search terms, and you have to know what you’re looking for before you find it.

Yes, digitize; it’s essential for all sorts of reasons. Yes, catalogue; we can’t do our job without it. Yes, tidy and organize, but think very hard about anything you might throw away, not just in terms of material but in terms of ethos. Time and motion studies, cost-benefit analyses might not show the whole picture.

But with what seems like an underlying aim to make scholarship more efficient (and therefore even more end-driven, rather than means-guided) two new features of Americo-Florentine academia give me hope. First, that there is money to provide a few students per year six months of reading time. Come to Florence and read. Don’t write, read. What a good idea! Then there are the short-term fellowships for mothers, finally, finally, recognising that women with young families can’t just up sticks for a year, leaving captious and needy children behind in the care of bewildered husbands and grandparents, or make their spouses (who still probably earn more than they do) take unpaid leave from their jobs for a year. The powers that be at I Tatti should be congratulated for their foresight and generosity, and for their plain common sense. Students that read, women that can compromise. Bravissimi!

And now, here I am in Ferrara, and two hours before closing time in the Ariostea. Gloriously unmechanised, wooden-drawered, hand-written (with a nibbed pen) card catalogues, dead dude (Ariosto) in the corner, rare books in lattice-doored shelves, stepladders, and portraits of countless cardinals. But…and…free wifi and a place to plug in my computer. Ah, it’s great to be back.

Overload…

March 17th, 2010

I’ve been staring at a blank word document for ages now, wondering where to begin. The last couple of days have gone by so quickly – not all, I hasten to add, because of adrenalin. Yesterday I did end up with a pounding migraine, so the end of the day washed by in a wave of naratriptan. But at least it’s a drug that makes you think you’re functioning until you finally pass out.

Yesterday, it has to be said, was a bad day at the office. Nothing much achieved apart from crossing certain boxes off my list and knowing that I wouldn’t find anything there. But at least it gave me time to allow the previous day’s discovery to sink in, and to work out a possible route for the book to have got from Florence to Ferrara. I saw this poster early yesterday morning and the image stuck with me, how triumphant she looks, and so nun-like with her hair like a black veil. I get the same sort of feeling from those plays. Actually, it still blows my mind that not only is convent culture permeable between convents (our author dedicates one of her plays to nun at another convent, knowing that she and her niece like a bit of culture), but it’s also travelling between cities. It is, as they say, a brave new world.

I went back this evening to have another look and to request a complete copy (it’s over 300 pages long, so I steeled myself for a hefty bill). A little more careful reading reveals that for some of the musical interludes, she even gives the tunes you’re supposed to sing the words to. Absolutely incredible.

And this morning I spent reading Lucrezia Bendidio’s love letters to Cardinal Luigi d’Este. Her correspondence over a period of just over twenty years, and the dispatches sent by his agents whilst he was away that give him news of her, reads like a slow train wreck. When they say there are no new stories, boy, it’s really true. Here we have a gloriously beautiful, talented woman who is the star of the court, but who becomes the victim of what these days would be called mobbing because she unwisely chooses to favour the cardinal over his brother, the duke. It looks like the Duke more or less orchestrated a hate campaign against her and ordered people not to speak to her; one of her greatest supporters comes and tells her that he’s sorry, but she can’t visit his wife anymore. But because she has no choice, she carries on singing for the Duke until he finds other singers, and then she really is hung out to dry.

Over the next fifteen years she endures insults, smears and public humiliation, and then finally she is forced to hand over land and belongings that were purchased with money given to her by the (now dead) Cardinal. Her letters, by the end, betray what looks to be mental illness; she is desperate and angry and has nowhere to turn. I often wonder what happened to Lucrezia. I bet she ended up in a convent – I do hope, though, that she wasn’t forced to enter the Convertite or the Soccorso (for battered wives).

And along with all this I find inklings that the kind of music she’s singing with her sister, ten years before the concerto di dame is formed for Margherita, is much more sophisticated than previously thought.

It certainly puts into perspective the more famous Tarquinia Molza / Giaches de Wert affair that happens later – Molza and Wert are both banished from the court for doing what everyone else was doing. Looks like Alfonso was a serial bully who didn’t like being a lesser priority.

So I’m feeling pretty exhausted tonight – post migraine, and like I’ve spent the best part of the day with someone really strung out. Food tonight was quick – just another wafer-thin pizza from the restaurant next door (thin, but actually with a circumference bigger than my hips, which is going some). Last night it was pasta e fagioli, which was warming and solid, especially as it seemed to have rather a lot of polenta in it as well. No picture – it was just yellow.

Tomorrow, back to poor Lucrezia, and hopefully to find a Modena jersey for Son no 2. I think I need to get home soon – overload is approaching!

Writing fiction backwards…

March 15th, 2010

After a fitful night’s sleep in another hotel bed, this time with a rather indifferent pillow, I hardly felt ready to do battle in the Biblioteca Estense. But fortified with a rather unusual croissant integrale con miele (integrale means wholewheat; the miele was an odd kind of jellied honey) and a cup of coffee, I wandered out into the Piazza Mazzini, and saw the beautiful old synagogue by the light of day. What the picture doesn’t show is the mounds of snow left over from the last few days – it’s still cold but very bright, and it feels like spring.

I started by checking some stuff from my last visit that I felt I hadn’t transcribed quite properly (and I hadn’t) then, wondering what to do next, started leafing through an older catalogue of the manuscripts. Well, not so much a catalogue as a hundred-year-old Roneographed list of all the manuscripts in a haphazard order. I came across what looked to be a copy of a play (veglia) presented at a sixteenth-century Florentine convent, noted it down, and then in a completely different place found another manuscript by the same author with the title “Recreazione di monache.” Intrigued now, I ordered both of them, and then checked back in the main catalogue to see how they had been indexed. Neither were there. Drat, I thought, they’ve probably been lost. But no, they just hadn’t been indexed.

So, I opened the one called “Recreazione,” and I’m very glad I was sitting down and that the book was flat on the desk, as I didn’t want everyone to see that my hands had started shaking. On the front page, in her own handwriting (I can recognize it now) was, “Questo libro si è a me Margherita Duchessa di Ferrara.” As I compared the two, it seems that Margherita had been lent a book of about ten little Carnevale plays written by a Florentine nun, and was in the process of having it copied, as her own book contains just over three of them. Whether the original owner then gave her the book, or died, or she just decided to keep it, we will never know. But they ended up in the Estense library, and they clearly haven’t been looked at for many, many years.

Some of the musical interludes are well documented, and the props and costumes are vividly described. My favourite is the costume for a nun representing the canonical hour of Terce: a not-quite-teenager (fanciulletta alquanto maggiore) dressed in red, with red wings, with a card in her hand that bears the number “III,” and a garland of red violets. The numbered card is somehow so poignant. But don’t get the impression that these are “let’s do it in the barn” type productions – there are carriages, suns, moons, kings, queens, processions and presentations. And the book looks like it was compiled so that another convent could use it. So perhaps one of these was used for the presentatione that Margherita and Leonora d’Este went to see at San Vito in 1594? Hmmm? But the weirdest thing is that I kind of feel like I’m watching fiction being written backwards – so much of what Sarah wrote into Sacred Hearts is creeping into my book, almost like she dreamed it up and so it came into being.

I’ll be able to finish examining the book and describing its contents (can’t transcribe it all – well over 300 pages!) over the next few evenings as the library is open a few more hours than the archive. But the high doesn’t make it very easy to eat. Or wouldn’t normally – luckily I’m in Modena, so gastro-exuberance is a given. Tonight it was a risotto al radicchio Trevisiano with verdure alla griglia. I took pictures but they didn’t come out well. Cooked radicchio actually doesn’t look that appetising, but it was delicious, both in the risotto and straight off the grill, drizzled with aceto (balsamic vinegar). Here, they have vinegar on everything – on pasta, on meat, even on ice cream. Yes, you heard. Well, maybe I’ll have the courage to try it by the end of the week. Right now, there are so many butterflies in my stomach I dare not challenge it with something quite so radical. Oh, and, of course – instead of Padre Pio, there was Luciano again, beaming down on my dinner wishing me buon appetito! Viva Modena!

Archive tomorrow, and we’ll see if the angel still has gifts to bestow.

The archive angel

February 25th, 2010

A gorgeous morning, and a satisfactory day. The archive angel is still sitting on my shoulder, bless her. So today I only really found three documents worth having, but they are amazing, just amazing. Almost the first letter (or draft minuta, which is much more difficult to read) I looked at showed me that Margherita was seeking clarification from the Pope, as early as 1581, on the licenza allowing her to enter convents with her ladies. She wanted to get the dress code right. And, twenty years later, she clearly wanted her organ in Sant’Orsola to be equally appropriately attired, as she managed to get a painting for its lid back from Cesare d’Este.

But the reason I know that the AA is still with me is that when chasing a little more information on the gruesome murder of yesterday, I came across something I really, no REALLY, didn’t expect. While there were no letters from or to the dead girl’s immediate family, apart from a very entertaining narration of how her dad came to get married in Rome after being beaten to a pulp by his rival suitor, there was a document about yet another daughter of the family, who was a novice at San Vito in 1572. Quite a sad tale, really, as it is a record of questioning regarding her illicit lover, one Biagio Muradore, who got her up the duff. She begged not to be sent to prison, and really you do feel quite sorry for her, but I couldn’t suppress a snort when I got to the punch line. “And the Inquistor asked, ‘Where does Biagio live?’ ‘I think he’s from San Giovanni Battista, next to the suore convertite [the reformed prostitutes’ convent].’” I could hear somewhere faintly, “Grazie. Sto quì per la settimana.”

The exciting musicological thing about this document, though, is that it names another nun at the convent, who just happens to be cited as an excellent organist in another source, well known to those who have an interest in Ferrarese nuns. But she has been assumed (by some) to be a he, as her name is extremely close to that of male Ferrarese musician. Now I know she’s a she, and she’s real, so all those that assumed that the nuns at San Vito were taught by an imported bloke, think again.

So not even an uncharacteristically bobbins commute back to Parma, waiting on the platform for nearly an hour as the delays got longer and longer, could put paid to my good mood. And I had a good novel, too – my Christmas present from my brother-in-law, The Garden of the Finzi-Continis, by Giorgio Bassani. As it’s set in Ferrara, I suppose I should be reading it there, but whatever. It’s a beautiful book, noble and sad.

Clearly, the Italians have the right attitude to writers, though. As I turned to get off the train I saw this sign:

Give us your poetry!!

Can you imagine a British press doing this kind of thing? Advertising for poetry manuscripts on the train? Or an academic press, soliciting on the Underground? Shaking my head in wonderment, I strolled back down the Via Garibaldi, stopping to buy a huge hunk of cheese to take back to Son No 2. I’ve failed utterly to find him a Parma jersey, but hopefully will be able to pick one up when I come back next month. After all, what are these trips for?

There are only so many stories to tell

February 24th, 2010

downstairs at the Biblioteca Estense

Another day at the Biblioteca Estense, perhaps not quite so exciting, but a bit of consolidation nonetheless. It’s just so exhilarating to walk into the Palazzo dei Musei, a truly beautiful building, that it would be hard to be disappointed even if the research was a bust.

I found out more about the murder, which was distressing in the detail, but (if I’m honest) had a touch of A Fish Called Wanda about it, in that they tried three or four times to do the poor girl in before they were successful. They being a Ferrarese nobleman and his servant, apparently acting under the influence of the nobleman’s “femina” (I suppose, mistress?) who is reported to have been Very Old, i.e. 45 years. It also has a touch of Bones in there, too, as it looks like the Princess Lucrezia ordered a clandestine post mortem and had the body exhumed in the dead of night from its tomb in the cathedral to establish cause of death. How cool is that?

Plus I found a list of the ducal support for Corpus Domini, and blimey, they got through a lot of food. 200 eggs at a time, pounds and pounds of fish and veal (although not during lent), figs, eels, pears, you name it – or not, there is stuff I’ve never heard of. They were seriously, seriously rich for a mendicant order. And I now know that everyone hated the Bishop Fontana of Ferrara. But I’m a bit bored of endless chronicles, so I might get started at the Archivio di Stato tomorrow, which will stand me in good stead for when I come back next month. That way I know I will hit the ground running in the second stint.

Pavarotti in the windowI am really looking forward to staying in Modena, for once. The train is easy and relatively cheap, but it would be nice just to roll out of bed and into the sala di consultazione. It seems like such a cool town. When I was in San Severo, much further down south, a couple of years ago for a conference on nuns, everywhere – and I mean everywhere – had pictures of Padre Pio, on the wall, in windows, on banners, posters, whatever. In Modena, however, they have different priorities. OK, Padre Pio does look a lot like the legendary bass, Feodor Chaliapin, but Luciano is the real deal. The poster says, “Grazie, maestro.” Aw.

But here I am, back in Parma for another meal, this time at the Trattoria Corrieri. Time for tris di tortelli, which is a triple combination of spinach, mushroom and pumpkin pasta parcels. The pumpkin tortelli have more citrus to them here than those in Ferrara and Mantua, which is great, but I miss the sage on top, ubiquitous in those cities further east. The insalata mista was right on the money, though, with only winter leaves – lambs lettuce, baby radicchio, rocket. Their sharpness was perfect to cut through the pint of butter on the pasta.

One more whole day, then an extra half day before I start the long trek back. I almost feel like I’m on information overload, but at least I know that I have now have my own story to tell about these wonderful ladies.